Pete Flynn profiles James Clarke of Hook Norton – a resilient brewing legend
Arriving at this delightful brewery on a damp morning, I travelled through muddy, narrow country lanes to arrive at Hook Norton brewery where a tour was taking place. You cannot help being impressed at the magnificent site of a Victorian tower brewery which loomed in front of me, one of only a few remaining in the UK, and characterised by their multi-storey design using gravity to aid the brewing process.
Managing Director James Clarke had agreed to meet me and right on time we settled in the wonderfully comfortable café, which opened in 2017 to complement the brewery shop and tour side of the business.
James explained that 2024 marked the 175th anniversary of the brewery started by his great- great- grandfather who was a local grain merchant, and saw an opportunity to use his own locally grown organic produce. Today the business includes 32 pubs which are all freehold and employs around 80 people in total, of which 30 are in pubs. During the pandemic, all tenants were supported by a cessation of rent which proves the long-term commitment of a business not having to answer to external shareholders.
About 12,000 barrels of beer are brewed annually of which 30% is bottled. The business has diversified enormously since the early days and the brewery buildings host around 12 weddings a year. The happy couple can celebrate their nuptials by brewing their own beer using the small barrel plant which is on site, and otherwise used mostly for R&D and training purposes.
James celebrated his 33 years at Hooky by brewing a dark mild beer which is testament to a style of beer that was a lynchpin from the early 1900s to the 1980s.
I asked James about ownership of the company, and was surprised to learn that little has changed since the 1950s when some family shareholders decided to exit the business and sell out to another local family, culminating in just 10 shareholders today. There are four non-executive directors and an internal senior management team overseeing day-to-day operations.
I have known of James for many years, and he has hosted beer-related events all around the county. He is always most engaging and charismatic, whilst acting as wise counsel to smaller brewers who would count on him as a friend despite being business rivals. I asked James about his early background, and he told me that initially he was an employee of the fire service before joining the family business in 1991, becoming head brewer in 1998. Following in family footsteps, he became MD upon the death of his father in 2004.
James has two sons: George who is employed within the business on the brewing side, and Ed who is a brewer at London-based Gipsy Hill brewery. It is always good to know that Hooky is likely to be in family hands for another generation.
Whilst running a successful business might seem enough for most people, James pioneered NOXAIDUK, a local charity to help victims of the war in Ukraine.
“It all started with an idea I had following a conversation with my dentist, whose mother is Ukrainian,” James recalled. “It all started very simply by sending a man in a van to talk to locals and logistically look at what type of support we should provide, with an ambulance being a possibility. During May 2022 we dispatched two vehicles, with Fuller’s and Bateman’s breweries already having visited the area.
“Thirteen trips have been made over the past 2½ years providing a focus on medical gear, with a fire engine planned for delivery in January next year. An hour over the border is where we meet our contacts, and it is all about getting the right aid to the right people as war breeds black market racketeering. Resourcefulness and spirit are key to all we do.”
The efforts made by James and his team are admirable, and to his credit he sets aside a day a week to help his Ukrainian friends who he has made during the conflict. “Psychological support is key, and they remember you and enjoy meeting new people,” he said. “Sadly, we have known friends who have been killed fighting in the conflict.”
Providing support locally is something James is passionate about, and he has been recognised for his volunteer work as a community first responder for South Central Ambulance Service. He received a “Highly Commended” award in the volunteer category at the BBC Radio Oxford Make a Difference Awards, highlighting his dedication in providing medical assistance in his community whether from his home or workplace; surely an inspiration to us all.
Community engagement is also important to James as Hook Norton sponsors local football and cricket teams, whilst a classic car group meets regularly at the brewery. James also pioneered the Green Hop run, a motorbike gathering which he likens to a Beaujolais wine run but better.
“Hooky” is proud to display its green credentials as it now has two new hot water tanks using thermal batteries. Planning permission has been submitted for a solar field whilst a new steam boiler is to be installed.
During its 175th anniversary Hooky was not immune from the odd drama, and one unfolded in May 2024. A catastrophic fire which quickly spread damaged the stable block when a series of solar panels caught fire, but fortunately no-one was injured. The brewery’s shire horses, still used for deliveries in the village, were unharmed as they were out in the fields at the time.
For those of you who want to read more about James and the heritage of “Hooky” you should read the book Playing Hooky by Adrian Tierney Jones, published to celebrate the anniversary.
It is important to reflect upon the legacy that James and his team are building at the brewery, and what it means for the brewery’s future. A thriving brewery shop and business centre provide valuable sources of added income, whilst the events management team are also adding value. Eight tour guides serve to offer an interesting insight into day-to-day workings, and are keen to emphasise the heritage and hardiness of this family dynasty.
It is fair to say that James has many fine attributes, but my two takeaways are his personal resilience and charisma, just the sort of leader who could be relied upon: an Ernest Shackleton of the brewing industry. Here’s to another 175 years of brewing.
