Dave Richardson joins a branch pub tour around this part of East Oxford
We all tend to have favourite pubs, but the Oxford branch of CAMRA is organising a series of rambles around parts of the city not everyone knows. Our chairman John Winney has designed a London Underground-style diagram of East Oxford pubs to start us off, complete with suggested walking times between stops provided by Google. Next up is the Jericho Pub Ramble (also visiting other areas of North Oxford) on September 26 — see branch diary nearer the time for full details.
I knew I wouldn’t be doing all the pubs down Iffley and Cowley Roads and up to The Plain, but I joined for the Iffley Road part to visit some pubs I hadn’t been to for years. This was during the July heatwave, when cool but not cold beers were much appreciated.
The meeting point at 12 midday was the Prince of Wales in Iffley Village, which still has a village feel with its thatched buildings, ancient church and narrow street, despite being just 2½ miles from the city centre. The pub is now one of just two pubs in Oxford owned by Wadworth, with two of the Wiltshire brewery’s real ales on offer – 6X and Henry’s IPA – its golden ale Horizon being off.
6X is my usual choice in any case and I enjoyed a half as I looked around at this all-rounder of a pub, with a strong dining offer, garden space and special events. These include neuro-diverse games once a month and the adults-only Brush Party. This was intriguing, but my blushes were spared when bar staff explained it was painting classes!
It was now time to head across Iffley Lock and alongside Old Father Thames – or the Isis, as the river is known in Oxford. The Isis Farmhouse pub stands right on the river bank just on the city side of the lock, and has a huge garden very popular in weather such as this. It has limited opening hours in winter, but as there is no road access for customers you may need a little fortitude to navigate the towpath on a dark night even though it is lit.
“Rustic charm” is probably the best way to describe the quirky interior, but it’s a successful business too with large marquees for special events such as live music (“Gypsy Jazz” and Oxford-based Cuban band Ran Kan Kan were advertised) and weddings. The pub has had a long relationship with Oxford Brewery (formerly Shotover) whose Trinity pale ale and more malty Prospect were available. A few years ago, the beer here would definitely have been warm on a day like this but I’m pleased to say a new cooling system has put paid to that.
It was now time for something completely new to me – the BMAN taproom, opened earlier this year just off Donnington Bridge over the river. It’s only a 10-minute amble along the river from the Isis Farmhouse, but not that easy to find and not visible from the towpath or the road. Cross the bridge coming from the Abingdon Road direction and then turn right – or turn left into Meadow Lane just before the bridge if coming from Iffley Road. Keep going until you see an apologetic little sign for BMAN, and turn right.
BMAN doesn’t do real ale, but founder Alex Berryman carved out a niche for quality craft keg at its previous base in Chalgrove before moving here earlier this year. Its own beers are brewed on the premises and it also has some guests, and our group enthused about the black lager and the stout, which I tried, both having great depth of flavour. It’s only open from 5-10pm on Fridays and 1-10pm on Saturdays, but facilities are spartan to say the least with little seating inside but plenty in a field, which didn’t look inviting in full sun (and wouldbe rather wet if it ever rains again!)
Our group now began to divide as some headed up to Iffley Road and over to Cowley Road, but I had decided not to visit Cowley Road as I think there’s little real ale worth drinking there until you get up to the Star, off St Clement’s. Instead we crossed Donnington Bridge Road and continued up Meadow Lane and along a footpath for about 10-15 minutes, then turning right into an alleyway to find the Chester right in front of us.
Formerly the Chester Arms, this independent pub was closed for some years a decade ago but is now thriving, with a garden dominated by an ancient tree and a good reputation for food. You need to seek it out as it’s in a back street, but worth the effort as I had my “beer of the day” here – an excellent half of Rebellion’s Knight’s Oath, a 4% golden ale with tastes of biscuit and very well rounded. Loose Cannon’s Abingdon Bridge is the house real ale but the Knight’s Oath was a great find.
The Chester is renowned for “Hamza’s Steak Platter” – an enormous dish for two (£50) or three (£70) taking 45 minutes to cook, served since 2009. Gourmet food is also central to the next pub, the Magdalen Arms on Iffley Road, which has retained its gastro-pub image at a time when many others have dumbed down their menus. Anyone for Pappardelle, Wild Rabbit and Chorizo Ragout (£19.80)? Maybe next time.
Since my last visit the Magdalen has struck a deal with Hook Norton to be its real ale supplier, offering Hooky, Off the Hook IPA and Haymaker, a 5% premium Pale Ale generally available in July and August. I enjoyed a full pint of Haymaker while looking around this very large pub, with more outside space than would appear, and planning a return visit.
What proved to be my last stop was just along Iffley Road towards the city centre – the Fir Tree, the only pub along my route run by Greene King. You wouldn’t know it, however, as there was no sign of Abbot or IPA as the only real ale was Deuchars IPA, now brewed by GK-owned Belhaven in Scotland. It tasted good but it was disappointing to find only one real ale on a Saturday afternoon – perhaps it’s really quiet around here during university holidays. It’s a quirky old pub, open until 2am, with pizzas Monday to Friday evenings.
I had intended to visit the Oxford Blue, a Wells & Co pub just off Iffley Road, but as this didn’t open until 5pm I had to give it a miss. So, what had I enjoyed most about the day? The friendship and conversation, of course, and the river walk. None of these pubs are stand-outs for real ale, but all except the Prince of Wales and Fir Tree were serving local, independent ales and there’s now a taproom, albeit keg, with beer brewed on the premises. Reasons to be cheerful – and to visit.
