Tony Goulding visits a Midlands town that’s easy to reach from Oxford
Myself and Dave Richardson decided to take a short train ride to Rugby to investigate a possible destination for a future beer festival helpers’ trip. It was a one-hour journey with a change at Coventry to the home of Rugby Union, where there would also be observations of railway operations (no, not trainspotting, that finished 30 years ago) including looking at what’s left of the pre-Beeching railway. We also visited a great model railway shop on the delightful Grand Union canal at Hillmorton Locks.
The latter two interests were soon taken care of. Rugby is now an exceptional place to drink, not like the comment in the 1981/82 Warwickshire Real Ale Guide which noted that there was then little to attract the drinker to the town except the Black Swan, the Squirrel and the excellent Half Moon.
On leaving the railway station, our first visit would be half-way up the gentle hill — the Seven Stars, a former M&B house. The pub with the present landlord, Graham Proud, is part of the Project William enterprise whereby Everards Brewery teams up with a local group or brewery to rescue a failing pub. Graham spent some time in Oxford working in no other than the Royal Blenheim (leased by Everards but sub-leased to Titanic) and the Turf Tavern. This multi-roomed local boozer was serving beers from Everards, Byatts, Ossett, Ashover, Woodfords, Rudgate York Chocolate Stout (well, York was, along with Bournevillle, a chocolate city) and four very tasty ciders. Good food is available here with huge support for the game of Rugby although they do welcome the barmy army and football fans for some interesting banter. We did not want to leave this many times Warwickshire Pub of the Year.
A 10-minute walk into the town centre found the Merchant’s Inn, one of the town’s prominent beer outlets. This sprawling one-room, back street boozer was serving beer from Roosters, Nethergate, Mad Squirrel, Purity, North Country, Hop Kettle, Oakham and five ciders. A great reception was had from knowledgeable staff who advised us that food is served during the day only. This was very much another sports-orientated pub with Rugby, cricket, tennis and Formula 1 very popular.
Our next visit was to the smallest pub in town, the Squirrel Inn, a former Marston’s house and given that the beer selection included Banks’s Mild and Jennings Cumberland Ale, we thought the pub was still owned by Marston’s. Once again, though, very knowledgeable and friendly staff assured us that we were in a free house. I remembered the 1981/82 beer guide comments that “this pub is still going strong”. RCH Pitchfork bitter completed the beer line-up and with 20 drinkers in here, the pub is full.
Our next visit was to the Victoria, another former M&B house. A prominent corner pub looking like the bow of a ship, it’s a bit like the Baltic Fleet in Liverpool. On the bar were beers from Hook Norton, Abbeydale, Oakham, Salopian and a great pint of Thornbridge Jaipur. There was a good cosy atmosphere with the locals engaged in some interesting conversation.
Nearby was the Alexandra, but we did not call at this corner pub which looks very much like the Victoria, and once home to the Atomic Brewery which ceased brewing over 12 months ago. We had previously visited here and had many memories of a thriving, busy pub.
Rugby’s micro-pub, the Rugby Tap, did not disappoint and was just opening as we approached. This typical shop conversion was serving Phipps IPA and Midsummer Meadow, plus a Byatts, Churchend and a very rare West Coast pale ale from the Triumph micro-brewery in Coventry. With a very knowledgeable and enthusiastic landlord/owner, this pub was very comfortable and friendly and, for me, offered four very tasty ciders. The Webb Ellis Rugby Football Museum is next door, and it is close to Rugby School where the game started. There’s more to discover in Rugby, including the Windmill Inn, run by Black Country Ales, but not in the current Good Beer Guide and not visited. Being so easy to reach, it’s well worth considering for a day out.
