Small George Street pub set to become a “must” on Oxford scene
One of Oxford’s smallest pubs, the Grapes, re-opens at 5pm on August 3. It is set to once again be a haven of tradition and quality ales in the heart of Oxford’s nightlife scene, opposite the New Theatre and close to large chain pubs including Wetherspoon’s Four Candles, O’Neill’s and, right next door, Greene King’s Wig & Pen. The Grapes has been operated by various companies over the last decade, but is now set to thrive in the hands of a small independent pub company operating 10 hostelries in and around London, with links to several others.
It has been closed since December 2021, having already lost much of the previous two years due to the Covid lockdowns. The Morgan Pub Collective, founded by Dick Morgan in 1974, first expressed interest soon after then to the building’s owner, Oxford City Council. But there were complications relating to the licence and the lease, with City Pub Company holding the lease but sub-letting the Grapes to West Berkshire Brewery which went into administration at that time. It had been leased to Bath Ales in 2012, which later renamed it Beerd, but Bath Ales’ sale to St Austell brewery was followed by West Berkshire taking over in 2019.
Landlord Johnny Roberts returns to George Street three years after leaving the Four Candles, where he was assistant manager, moving in September 2020 to the White House in Bladon. More recently he has been working at another Morgan pub, the Coach & Horses in Rickmansworth, Hertfordshire. The nearest pub to Oxford operated by the group is the Argyll in Henley-on-Thames, a fairly recent acquisition.
Johnny appealed through Oxford CAMRA’s Facebook page for suggestions about which cask ales to stock for the opening, and he has eight hand pumps available. The most popular choice was Lemon Dream by Salopian, which might prove hard to get in time, but the opening line-up will include a mainly local range of Trinity by Oxford Brewery; Wipeout by Little Ox; Super Sports by Wriggly Monkey; a rare Hooky Mild (2.8% but flavoursome) from Hook Norton; and Harvey’s Sussex Best. Two real ciders are also scheduled for the opening, Snails Bank’s Apple Hog and one from the Lilley’s range.
“As at the Four Candles and the White House, I am trying to provide a range of different strength ales from very pale to dark,” explained Johnny. “Our real ales will be priced around the £4.95 a pint mark, but with Wetherspoon and the Wig & Pen as neighbours, there’s no point going for ridiculous prices. Most of the real ales are local, and there is a 10% discount for CAMRA members. The exception is the Sussex Best which is very well liked.”
The Grapes’ licence allows for opening until 2 a.m. later in the week, as it will aim to become the “go to” late night venue for bar staff at other pubs which close at 11pm or later. Keg ale and lager drinkers are also very well catered for with no fewer than 40 keg lines, some of them duplicated, including well-known international brands but also local suppliers such as Chadlington lager and Loose Cannon. Good value pub food is offered with the small kitchen being almost totally refitted, with all food delivered fresh including pies made by Capital Catering, under the same ownership as the pub group.
But there are changes inside, including removal of the partitions along the wall to create more seating capacity at tables with stools. Some previous customers will regret this, but to succeed the Grapes needs to maximise use of its limited space. Old maps adorn the walls and vinyl music will be played from turntables. The hanging baskets outside – well cared for even during the months of closure – have also gone, to make new signage more visible when this is delivered.
Johnny said there had been no problems recruiting staff, with the head chef coming from the Crown and supervisors including James Henson formerly of the Swan and Castle, and Jack Amos who worked with Johnny at the Coach & Horses.
“The philosophy of the group is to know what customers like and to do it well, with each pub run in its own style, a little bit quirky, and no two pubs the same,” he added. “George Street is absolutely buzzing now and we can’t wait to re-open on Thursday.”